Transformation of Waves Across the Surf Zone.

摘要: Abstract : Goda's (1975) model, describing wave transformation from deep water to across the surf zone, is compared with a large amount of data obtained experiments conducted at Torrey Pines Beach, San Diego, California. model simulates breaking by truncating Rayleigh distribution in order estimate height distributions zone; heights are shoaled applying nonlinear theory. Comparisons between empirical and theoretical distributions, measured rms heights, made. It found that over-predicts tails under-predicts peaks calculated too values. The range breaking, coefficients used criteria Goda, modified obtain which better fits observed matches heights.