Hydrodynamics and Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Swash-Zone of Natural Beaches: A Review

摘要: The high velocities and suspended sediment concentrations in the swash-zone mean that transport processes this zone are likely to be important contributors shoreline erosion accretion. However, studies of hydrodynamics have been relatively few compared with those rest nearshore zone. Studies included run-up measurements using electrical resistance capacitance devices, as well cameras. Run-up has modelled mostly non-linear shallow water equations. Sediment require instrumentation which can unobtrusively obtain close bed, therefore, very data exist so far. performed incident –wave dominated low energy conditions on steep reflective beaches, measuring individual swash events, reasonable success uprush only. made dissipative beaches found by oscillations at infragravity frequencies, being 3 9 times higher than inner surf-zone. added complication of groundwater influx outflux is also recognised an essential area study, whose should any model transport.