A cost-effective method for estimating long-term effects of waves on beach erosion with application to Sitia Bay, Crete

作者: Flora E. Karathanasi , Kostas A. Belibassakis

DOI: 10.1016/J.OCEANO.2018.12.001

关键词: Mediterranean seaShields parameterGeologyTerm (time)Coastal erosionErosionSoil scienceWave heightSeabedSediment

摘要: Summary Considering the significant role of beaches for sea environment and welfare coastal communities, a variety process-based models are applied in order to examine understand interaction hydrodynamic processes with seabed material at different time scales. However, long-term view this requires great amount computational time. In work cost-effective methodology is proposed surpass shortcoming estimate bed level evolution. The technique relied on an objective criterion assess spectral wave series height, period direction identify conditions that contribute initiation sediment movement. After implementing so-called Shields criterion, full climate reduced two classes representative conditions: over-critical ones, mainly responsible erosion, sub-critical conditions. By applying well-known model, used as input wave-current-sediment transport simulation rates changes obtained, basis which effects waves beach erosion estimated. Taking into account threatening phenomenon along sandy Mediterranean Sea, present method demonstrated coast Sitia Bay, Crete. levels derived from compared. results indicate reasonable agreement selected locations deviations under 7%, conformity tendency evolution, rendering new useful tool.

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