The Runup of Long Waves

摘要: This is a study of the fundamental physical processes runup long waves with objective to understand some coastal effects tsunamis. The nonbreaking on plane beaches studied and an exact solution developed for solitary waves. maximum predicted by this compared laboratory data from other investigations it found be in good agreement. A transducer was deployed provide shape tongue. shown model details climb wave satisfactorily. breaking investigated studying different bores finite volume. function momentum scale determined generation characteristics incoming wave. number introduced demonstrated that models process adequately. It also observed arbitrary have numbers smaller than, or at most equal to, waves, suggesting given beach run-up further than similar characteristics. An result established force accelerating plate fluid free surface. used explain results hydrodynamic forces moving partitions. technique generate arbitrary, long, continuously evolving any desired location model. applied successful reproducing complex waveforms.