Source Term Balance for Finite Depth Wind Waves

摘要: Abstract : LONG-TERM GOAL. The long-term goal is to obtain closure of the energy balance equation for wind wave evolution in finite depth water by means direct measurement main source terms. These terms represent basic physical processes required develop reliable prediction models. SCIENTIFIC OBJECTIVES. objectives are establish a description sources/sinks responsible shallow evolution, namely dissipation due both breaking and bottom friction, input. Spectral distribution white-capping has not previously been obtained either experimentally or theoretically, currently speculative approaches used this term natural phenomena determining random, nonlinear related extreme conditions hence difficult evaluate field. other two have subjects intensive research during last three decades, although detailed field observations rare. There qualitative understanding their behaviour, however, no established quantitative available.