A whole surf zone modelling approach as an aid to investigation of nearshore and coastal morphodynamics

摘要: Studies of the theoretical relationships between wave characteristics, nearshore topography and beach dynamics are common in coastal engineering geomorphology studies. Frequently, these studies use spatially averaged values dynamic variables (waves, tides) spatially-averaged topography. Such an approach reduces accuracy introduces errors when considered. High-resolution surf-zone Input output which needed to simulate complex waves, tides, winds sediments for both modal high energy/low frequency events can, however, be achieved by adapting extending existing approaches. This paper a method investigate characterise wave-induced processes using whole-surf-zone (i.e. integrated rather than approach) produce useful geomorphological interpretation morphodynamics. involves following steps: (i) Extraction spatially-referenced hydrodynamic data from 2-D numerical propagation model. The geographical is then written secondary file. (ii) Creation map database. (iii) Calculation of(a) local slopes within (b) average application classification formulae (eg. surf scaling parameter). (iv) parameters potential currents, sediment transport, setup etc). (v) G.I.S. compatible further analyses. approach, while still simplification processes, avoids averaging or single-point limitations inherent earlier approaches offers opportunity more robust detailed investigations processes. It also bathymetric updating other models, tend multiply errors. Several examples discussed this as aid morphodynamic has been demonstrated. presented field observations through simulation relevant would difficult obtain measurement.