Currents, waves and sediment transport around the headland of Pt. Dume, California

摘要: Abstract Sediment transport past rocky headlands has received less attention compared to along beaches. Here we explore, in a field-based study, possible pathways for sediment movement adjacent Point Dume, headland Santa Monica Bay, California. This prominent shoreline feature is nearly symmetrical, triangular-shaped promontory interior the Littoral Cell. We collected current, wave, and turbidity data 74 days during which several wave events occurred, including one associated with remote hurricane another generated by first winter storm of 2014. also acquired samples quantify seabed grain-size distributions. Near-bottom currents towards dominated on both its sides wave-driven longshore surf zone were faster exposed side. Bed shear stresses mostly waves minor contributions from currents, but other contributed flux. On wave-exposed west side headland, suspended concentrations correlated bed stress suggesting local resuspension whereas levels sheltered east are more easily explained advective delivery. Most appears be exported offshore due flow separation at apex may not move far given that fluxes moorings small. Further, flux unlikely pass discontinuity forcing causes different directions each headland. It thus sand transported (specifically westerly direction), although some finer fractions occur deep water. These findings minimal Dume consistent role as littoral cell boundary, complex multi-stage processes unusual account times.