A wave prediction system for real-time sea state forecasting

摘要: The considerable increase in requirements for sea state forecasts recent years has led to development of a numerical wave forecasting system the Meteorological Office. This is based on prediction model which combines advantages parametric technique predicting growing wind-sea with those discrete spectral swell regime. done using by parametrizing nonlinear interactions term energy balance equation way that reproduces behaviour model. main difficulty method separation and required do this. Propagation performed an accurate form Lax-Wendroff integration scheme. A two-term representation growth used whilst dissipation modelled explicit whitecapping mechanism. Shallow water effects are included representations shoaling, refraction bottom friction. operational atmospheric at Office provides wind input. An extensive program evaluation shown results provide high quality guidance 24-hour height having r.m.s. error ranging from 0·6 m southern North Sea 1·0 east Shetlands.