Computation of set-up, longshore currents, run-up and overtopping due to wind-generated waves

摘要: The main problem dealt with in this thesis is the calculation of certain effects caused by random waves breaking on a slope. solution to greatly complicated fact that wave highly nonlinear process. flow field further far stronger homogeneities than those occurring outside breaker zone, air entrainment and generation turbulence. No realistic deductive treatment it has been developed so far. Even for simpler case periodic waves, empirical knowledge macroscopic properties breakers still an integral part calculations relating surf zone. An attempt made apply formulation incorporating stochastic nature wind-generated waves. computations are two distinct categories, comparatively gentle slopes steep slopes. A summary results will be given following. energy variation calculated chapter 5 clipping fictitious height distribution, which theoretically would present if did not occur, at upper limit determined from adapted criterion computed fair agreement measurements carried out plane Knowledge permits radiation stresses evaluated, turn necessary set-up longshore current velocity profiles. comparison profiles data conclusive results. Good found data, but laboratory locally showed systematically smaller rise towards shore expected basis measured or variations. However, there some uncertainty respect system used measuring laboratory, known extent differences real apparent.