“Make It Yourself”: Home Sewing, Gender, and Culture, 1890-1930

摘要: Through home sewing, Sarah A. Gordon examines domestic labor, marketing practices, changing standards of femininity, and understandings class, gender, race from 1890 to 1930. As ready-made garments became increasingly available due industrialization, many women, out necessity or choice, continued make their own clothing. In doing so, women used a customary female skill both as means supporting traditional ideas tool personal agency. The shifting meanings sewing formed contested space in which businesses promoted machines tools for maintaining harmony, interpreted patterns suit-or flout-definitions appropriate appearances, girls were taught sew ways that reflected beliefs about race, region. Unlike studies clothing focus on changes fashion, "Make it Yourself" looks at the social cultural processes surrounding production. work, whether resented enjoyed, function work families individuals range backgrounds. Another unique element is Gordon's use an unusually wide variety source materials, diaries, photographs, government pamphlets tissue paper patterns, dresses, workbooks, dolls. This "hands on" approach, combined with accessible writing style, connects reader who are heart her study. Altogether, provides new perspective widespread yet often neglected form women's work.