Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa

摘要: This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study wave hydrodynamics in vicinity a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). is under investigation and consists supplementary protection solution for Leirosa sand dune system located at South Figueira da Foz, on Portuguese West coast. Such installation near coastline expected contribute enhance surfing conditions area, protect surroundings beach, increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with were performed four test cases, considering two geometries (differing angle) incident (storm condition common condition). Comparisons between results obtained, terms heights breaking line positions allow us assess influence beach around reef. Moreover, performance was analysed surfability coastal protection. The parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number peel calculated each case using numerical heights, directions positions. characterizing most appropriate configuration improve area. A methodology based free surface elevations horizontal velocity components developed calculate directions, since this not direct output model. Concerning protection, analyses mean currents used together observations cells shoreline as indication sediment transport.