Artificial Surf Reefs

摘要: Artificial Surf Reefs (ASR) are built to improve the surf conditions of waves. Three ASR have been realized over last decade and many more planned be constructed within a period ten years. Even though hot topic, design is often done fairly ad hoc there remains great uncertainty as what optimal dimensions should be. Through combination numerical experimental modeling efforts, this study aims at: 1) Improving our general understanding how affects actual surfability; 2) Designing an reef shape; 3) Obtaining measurements surfability parameters verify predicted by wave model. The quality break expressed in four measurable parameters: breaker height, shape, peel angle attendant currents. Usually differs from other places along coast ability make waves their crest. Therefore studied thoroughly. By considering idealized topographies, important properties that affect become clear. model applied state-of-the-art, deterministic amplitude evolution takes into account quadratic interactions (triad interactions). Optimal shape were estimated for varying shapes conditions. resulting was basin laboratory Fluid Mechanics Faculty Civil Engineering. Unidirectional incident (regular bichromatic) generated three piston type makers with second-order board control. observations used study: angle. combined shows that: Two needed obtain surfable angles. First must certain enclosed between normal offshore direction. Secondly, depth at which starts needs sufficiently shallow. performs when tip relatively sharp. This results less intense breakers suitable take-off. agreed well measurements. experiment showed water crest significantly shape. Also currents around significant impact on break.