Spectral wave modeling in fringing reef environments

摘要: Abstract This study examines the implementation and validity of phase-averaged spectral models in describing wave transformation over fringing reefs. The breaking mechanism abrupt reef crest, dissipation due to bottom friction, nonlinear energy transfer flat set problem apart from general applications non-tropical settings. Simulating Wave Nearshore (SWAN) model, which is widely used coastal engineering applications, has embedded parameterizations these surf-zone processes for examination. In addition, we extend model include a recently implemented bottom-friction source term tropical Comparisons predictions with laboratory field observations reefs identify promising wave-breaking calibration. calibrated enable SWAN reproduce observed height setup applicability environments. SWAN, however, lacks parameterization describe toward infra-gravity band that was studies.