Beachface morphology and surf beat sediment transport in laboratory scale surf and swash zones

摘要: Predicting the evolution of beachface is important in terms coastal protection, recreation and environmental sustainability. Swash zone sediment transport plays a major role this morphological response. However, despite recent advances swash modelling data collection, specific details are lacking, notably cross-shore variation net rates, influence surf beat wave groups on effects feedback between zones. This paper provides novel from carefully controlled small-scale laboratory experiments investigating transport. The include very detailed observations distribution zones for both eroding accreting beaches. Further, these distributions contrasted monochromatic waves, waves with bichromatic beat. In case, free shown to reduce nearshore heights short velocity amplitudes. Free found promote onshore under accretionary conditions offshore erosive conditions. Hence, tends transform beach toward reflective state possibly protects beach. group shows opposite effect. Additional show face migration longshore bars, illustrating coupling morphology.