Drinking Revolution, Drinking in Place: Craft Beer, Hard Cider, and the Making of North American Landscapes

摘要: borrowing from Pierre Bourdieu (1984), Sidney Mintz, and others, deeply social, political, economic as well. When tastes change, landscapes change Everything we eat or drink comes somewhere, obviously, whether a polluted river running through the lead pipes of Flint, Michigan, idyllic grassy meadows that house chickens who lay eggs I for brief window in late spring early summer. These intersect with personal biography on one hand, large-scale structures (like laws income inequality) other. Elite bottled water contribute (along other powerful factors) to decline attention municipal supplies. The growing interest among many (often elite, like myself) consumers cage-free may changes size shape chicken farms, growth demand truly pasture-raised allow farmers buy (Jacqui Richard) find willing (and largely urban) audience their eggs. In case beer cider, also landscapes, number hops farms places where haven’t been cultivated 100 years, effort build more regional malthouses small-scale brewers, resurrection lost orchards whose fruits become top-shelf ciders Tilted Shed Sonoma County, California). Thus can study contours effects this revolution terms production, consumption, place. tend be cautious when term ‘revolutionary’ gets applied things might simply slightly transforming. But after taking closer look at both craft hard cider United States, think revolutionary fit, albeit an interesting twist. quantity quality these beverages have changed radically over past two decades (especially decade). However, what seems mean is that, some ways, they are approaching least once held—pre-Prohibition (Fig. 1). At same time, ‘artisanal’ foods, not eternal return same, but rather shift class standing consumer. words, while production experienced tremendous uptick looks something close pre-Prohibition levels, conditions consumption appear, preliminary investigations, very different. particular, produced small micro breweries were part working class, today heavily toward being white, middle-class, male (Infante 2015). And forms alcohol arguably resurgence recent years: (hard) cider. This paper offers exploratory examination rise popularity beverages, paying particular ways which fleeting pleasures interact with—indeed, produce by—specific landscapes. include hop fields, barley malthouses, take up call locavore movement turn it into local (such New York State, supporting re-emergence York’s once-massive industry, search grain grown, even malted, home); urban host veritable explosion micro-breweries has taken place last decade so, key elements neighborhood revitalization and/or gentrification; orchards— new, ancient, nearly forgotten—that yield today’s increasingly diverse selection North American ciders. beverage specific material social consequences. taste consumer beers transforms agricultural new brewpubs, revitalized orchards, networks changes. exploration material, aimed generating foundation broader spatial consequences US.